Dolomites Itinerary with a Baby or Toddler: A Magical Alpine Adventure
I remember my first visit to South Tyrol in 2013 – I couldn’t believe how charming it was, with rolling green hills, dramatic mountains, and the yellowing leaves on the grape vines. Had I stumbled into a dream?
This most recent 2024 trip was my fourth visit, but it was my first as a mom, and seeing those breathtaking mountains through my toddler’s eyes made the experience brand-new and magical all over again. Imagine alpine playgrounds, trails perfect for tiny explorers, and cozy resorts with mini bathrobes that make you feel like you’ve walked right into a fairytale.
We flew into Zurich and spent 2 weeks journeying through the region, starting in Switzerland (though if you are coming from Austria, we’ve got tips for you as well!), and making our way into the heart of the Dolomites. It was the perfect itinerary, and it’s all here for you to book for your family:
Getting to Dolomites Days 1-3: Pontresina, Switzerland
We flew into Zurich after I found a cheap flight (United business class for the win!), picked up our car rental, and made our way to the Engadine valley, where you might be familiar with the famous ski town of St. Moritz. We were just one village over in Pontresina, which is how I like to do things – be near the action without being directly in it. This way, you avoid crowds and often get better scenery.
Where to Stay:
Pontresina offers a mix of charming alpine inns and family-friendly lodges. It’s just outside of St. Moritz, but it has a quieter, more intimate vibe. The Grand Hotel Kronenhof (read my full review) is a top choice if you want those classic Swiss views and plenty of amenities for young kids.
Not only do they have a kid’s club with rotating weekly activities so nothing repeats, but they have a special dining room and kids menu with high-brow options, an indoor kid’s pool and water slide, a bowling alley, and plenty of bigger pools as well, but they go above and beyond in every way to accommodate families. It was truly a dreamy 5-star stay. We can offer special booking perks thanks to our relationship with Kronenhof. Contact us to book.
What to Do:
- Bernina Express: Hop on the Bernina Express for an unforgettable train journey through the Swiss Alps. Your toddler will be captivated by the snow-capped mountains and glacial lakes passing by, and the panoramic windows mean you won’t miss a thing. It’s a low-effort way to start your adventure, with scenery so stunning it almost feels unreal. I recommend booking this far ahead of time and sitting on the right outbound and left inbound. We rode it from Pontresina to Poschiavo but I wish we’d gone all the way to Tirano.
- Explore the Changing Larches: If you’re lucky enough to visit in the fall, the larches are turning to gold, giving the mountains an almost ethereal glow. There are easy paths around the village that are stroller-friendly and perfect for a leisurely walk. We went from Pontresina to Lake of Staz.
READ NEXT: A perfect 3-day Switzerland itinerary with little babies + kids
If you are coming from Austria, I highly recommend checking out Feuerstein Nature Family Resort, or Schneeberg Family Spa Resort, both of which are arguably the best places to stay in South Tyrol for families. The facilities are simply amazing, and they both offer abundance activities for kids. Absolutely worth spending a couple of nights in one of these resorts before heading down to the Dolomites! Contact us to book.
Days 3-6: San Candido and Surroundings
The closest major airports to the Dolomites are in Innsbruck, Munich, Zurich, and Milan. We flew into Zurich and spent our first 3 days in Pontresina, which I included at the end of this post. For days 3-6, we crossed into Italy and headed to San Candido, a charming town right at the edge of the Dolomites near Tres Cime.
Where to Stay: Look for family-friendly hotels or cozy guesthouses near Lago di Dobbiaco; there’s something magical about waking up near a lake surrounded by mountains.
Park Hotel Bellevue: A lovely hotel with plenty of rooms and suites that are ideal for families. Toblach’s Wald WunderWelt, just a few minutes walk from the hotel, is a forest wonderland with ample play opportunities for the little ones. On the property ground, kids can enjoy a light children’s massage with soothing natural herbs.
The Laurin: A family-run hotel with several room types designed for families, and a kids play room to keep the little ones entertained, albeit a bit small. There’s a children’s park just 500 meters away, though. The hotel is strategically located in the center of Selva Val Gardena, yet in a quiet area.
Contact us to book your stay!
What to Do:
Lago di Dobbiaco and Durrensee: Both of these lakes have flat trails, ideal for little legs to stretch and explore. Bring a picnic, skip stones in the water, or just sit back and take in the incredible reflections.
There are bus stops near these two, and limited parking lots.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo: Tre Cime is a must-see, but it’s one to take cautiously with a toddler. There are some drop-offs along the way, so a child carrier is recommended (we used our Deuter Kid Carrier) – Here’s how to travel with a hiking carrier.
The hiking is stunning, and it feels like stepping into a postcard, with jagged peaks towering over green valleys. When we visited during the fall, they were full of changing colors from the larches.
Monte Elmo via the Sexten Lift: For an adventure that your toddler will adore, take the Sexten lift up to Monte Elmo. Not only are the views jaw-dropping, but there’s also an alpine playground at the top.
Picture a wooden castle with mountains all around—it’s like nature’s playground and a child’s paradise all in one.
Lift tickets were 30 Euros each, and our toddler rode free.
Days 6-8: Lago di Braies, Passo Giau, and Cortina d’Ampezzo
After our time in San Candido, we made our way to Cortina d’Ampezzo, stopping to explore some incredible sights along the way. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, but if you’re there in the summer or get a clear day, these are must-dos!
What to Do:
Lago di Braies: This lake is easily the most famous in the Dolomites, but for good reason. It’s the only thing that over all four of my trips, I never miss visiting. The changing larches make for quite a sight, and in the afternoon in the fall, it wasn’t too busy. The trails are flat and easy to follow around the lake, and you don’t have to go far for pretty views.
Passo Giau: This pass has wide-open views and gentle trails that are perfect for a short family hike. It’s also one of the most photographed spots in the Dolomites for a reason—those sprawling vistas are unforgettable.
Cinque Torri: This cluster of towering rock formations is a favorite for both hikers and photographers. There are cable cars in the area that operate in summer, making it easier to explore with little ones. This is the biggest downside of visiting in the autumn – the cable cars in Cortina d’Ampezzo are mainly shuttered for the season by October.
Where to Stay: Look for a lodge in Cortina d’Ampezzo, which is full of cozy spots perfect for families.
Hotel Cristallino: family-run style yet luxury hotel with onsite restaurant and bar, as well as a kids play room with a mini climbing wall. The loft junior suite would be great for families so when kids are sleeping upstairs, parents have a space to hang out and relax.
Radisson Residences Savoia Palace Cortina d’Ampezzo: great for if you are looking for a cozy apartment. Cots and baby sitting services are available upon request. Location is great, just 0.18 miles from the Faloria cable car and a huge department store.
Days 8-9: Ortisei and Val di Funes
Continuing west, we arrived in Ortisei, a town that feels like it was plucked right out of a storybook. Here, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to beautiful trails and alpine adventures.
What to Do:
Seceda Ridgeline: If you only do one thing here, make it the Seceda Ridgeline. A gondola ride takes you up to what feels like the top of the world, with sweeping views that stretch on forever. It’s stroller-friendly at the top, and the paths are gentle enough for young walkers.
Adolf Munkel Weg: This trail winds through Val di Funes and offers another unforgettable view of the Dolomites, with the peaks almost close enough to touch. You’ll pass meadows, farmhouses, and streams—a true fairytale landscape.
Where to Stay: Ortisei has a variety of family-friendly hotels and apartments, many with kitchens if you want to whip up a meal.
Hotel Gardena Grodnerhof is a beautiful hotel that caters to families, with special attention paid to the little guests. Kids can enjoy a new kids club that comes with a climbing wall, video game area, and children’s cinema. Professional childcare is available from 3-11pm, 6 days a week, perfect for parents who want to have a romantic evening alone. Book through this link to get extra perks including free upgrades, early check-ins, late check-outs (all subject to availability), resort credit and special welcome amenities!
Hotel Hell is another option with lots of amenities for children, including a playroom, a large garden (and its surrounding meadows and woods) to roam around, and access to the nearby Mar Dolomit, a huge public swimming pool that’s perfect for summer in the Dolomites. Contact us to book.
Days 10-11: Karthaus and Karthaus Goldene Rose
For the final leg of our journey, we drove to the tiny hamlet of Karthaus. If you’re craving a quiet, peaceful retreat, Karthaus is your spot. We stayed at the Karthaus Goldene Rose, which was the perfect, tranquil end to our trip.
Where to Stay: Karthaus Goldene Rose—this small inn has saunas, hot tubs, and the best croissants I think I’ve ever had (baked right there each morning). They offer multi-room accommodations, so if you’re traveling as a family, you’ll have the space to relax. Contact us to book.
What to Do:
- Relax at the Spa: After days of hiking and exploring, take some time to unwind. The Goldene Rose’s spa facilities are world-class and the perfect place to let your muscles recover. We also had no problem with our analog baby monitor reaching the spa during nap time since it’s in the middle of the small resort.
- Stroll Through the Village: Karthaus itself is tiny, but it’s beautiful in that charming, peaceful way. Stroll through the quiet streets, explore the old monastery, and check out the gorgeous Lago di Vernago nearby with colors reminiscent of Lake Tahoe.
Planning Tips for the Dolomites with Young Kids
This itinerary works well any time of year. Winter brings snow sports galore, while summer offers sunshine and green landscapes, though it’s a very busy time of year and you’ll want to make sure you arrive at any trailheads EARLY to secure a parking spot, or take the buses and trains. Fall, though, has the changing larches and fewer crowds—an absolute dream.
The Dolomites are rugged, vast, and wild, yet full of kid-friendly spots that make exploring easy and exciting. And traveling with a little one brings a whole new perspective. The world feels bigger, grander, and more exciting when you’re introducing it to a new adventurer.
